16 replies to this topic

[andy]

I wanted to add some things to think about if you are considering a move to Tijuana from the United States.

To give some background, I am in the 30 - 40 year old range and lived in the United States my entire life (until last year). I grew up on the east coast and was living in San Diego for 5 - 10 years. I work with several guys that I would consider to be Mexican although they are US citizens. They are of a similar age and have lived in Tijuana their entire life's. I figured if they can live in TJ and work in the US, I can do it to. I am currently living with a Mexican girl who is fully bi-lingual, so that is very helpful.

I have been living in Tijuana for a little bit more than a year. I commute to work across the border each week day and have flexible working hours. I drive to central San Diego from the coastal area of Tijuana.

The Border

I would not even consider commuting to San Diego daily unless I had Sentri. I cross after 9:00 am daily so I try to time it to miss the high border traffic, traffic in TJ and traffic in San Diego. Of course traffic is lighter after work since I am returning to Tijuana later in the evening. In the best case I can make it to work in 35 minutes. Average is 45 minutes, and in some cases it has taken me 1.5 hours... and that is one way. If the Department of Homeland Security decides to discontinue the Sentri program, that would make it more difficult. You need to remember you are commuting from one country to another and nothing is guaranteed.

Road conditions

If you have ever been to TJ, you know the maintenance of the roads is not as good as the US. After any rain, watch out. Holes appear everywhere. Since there is basically no drainage for the roads (we call them sewers or storm drains in the east) the water gets under the asphalt and you get pot holes. I don't see this ever getting better until they re-do all of the roads with the proper drainage. And keep in mind you will get more flat tires driving in Mexico. Lots of junk washes into the roads. I have had at least 3 flats in the past year.

Road closures

You can count on it... the police with the yellow tape across the road... unannounced. You need to learn TJ very well to have a couple of alternate ways to get to the border. I can't believe how often roads are closed... and not just the back roads, but the main streets. About one week ago the Internacional (main 'highway' from the coast along the US border) closed... guys sweeping the street at 9:30am on a week day.

Traffic

Traffic can be very rough during rush hour. The population keeps growing and the roads do not. An accident, you can count on sitting in your car until it is cleared. Rain.... you get the picture.

Safety

I think this is an area that is over-hyped. I feel TJ is fairly safe. Of course you need to take extra precautions and be careful... The issue that I see is that if you really need assistance from the police or the court system, can they really help you? Let's say you have some threatening person that won't leave you alone, in the US there are ways to get help, in Mexico, I am not so sure.

Utilities

Have been covered in great detail in another post. Water costs less than the US. Phone is about equal unless you make lots of calls or lots of international calls. Telnor DSL is good for broadband Internet. You can save money on international phone calls by getting some VOIP provider (big ones are Vonage and Packet8) and hooking to your internet connection. Electricity can be very expensive for higher use.... be very careful with the electricity. If you use a lot of electricity in one bi-monthly period, they will convert your account to a commercial account where you pay the highest rate for all usage. I think that so many people run businesses out of their homes that this is the way for the electric company to catch it. All compact florescent light bulbs can help....

Communication

I don't speak Spanish... really. I find that most Mexicans go out of there way to speak in English with me. Of course not everyone speaks English so sometimes I need to get creative with hand signals and the couple of words that I know. Living with someone who speaks fluent Spanish is very helpful. Over all, I find most Mexicans very pleasant and accomodating of a gringo living in their country with no language skills.

Eating

You can expect their are tons of tacos. Lots of high end places to eat in Rio Zone. Generally you can eat out for much less than in San Diego. Alcohol much less expensive also... but you may find yourself drinking more and cancelling out the savings This is covered in other posts.

Housing

This is one of the big pluses. Save 30 - 70% over living in San Diego. But in order to save you need to rent or purchase a home with cash or US financing. If you need to finance in Mexico, expect to pay 12 - 15% interest. That can easily wipe out any savings... if you are thinking to liquidate your highly-appreciated home in San Diego and buy a house cash in TJ, it becomes very interesting. Lots of things to be aware of when purchasing in Mexico as a foreigner... lots of info on this topic available on the web.

Overall, I am happy with my move from San Diego to Tijuana. But if you are expecting to live the same as you do in the United States, you better think twice. It is very different and if you need to commute to San Diego daily, you need a lot of patience.

Out of time to post today. If you have any questions or want some other details, I would be happy to answer any questions that I can.

[Pieancho]

Andy,
This is very informative and as you know my wife and I will be making the move soon. Thanks for the capachino Sat.
Your new neighbor.
Pieancho

[YankeeInExile]

Great post. Based on many of the questions I see written here, the "Tijuana is as safe as any city of its size" aspect cannot be over-emphasized.

I live in a decidedly working-class Mexican neighborhood. It has this cool Leave it to Beaver feel - neighbors all know each other, kids play in the courtyard, and the worst problem is the slacker teenagers around the corner running up and down the street on their quadrunners showing off for their girlfriends.

As to the price of housing - again, that cannot be overemphasized. I bought a four-unit apartment building for just shy of a million pesos earlier this year. Mortgage is with Santander. The rent covers about a third of the mortgage and I will have the building paid off in four years. If you want to buy income property in Mexico, get a good accountant there are quarterly filings for ISR and IVA, and the rules for "what is deductible" are very different. Last month, I got another house on the cheap in a seizure auction because an American wasn't paying income tax or IVA on his rental income.

[vagabundo]

I'll be moving to TJ (La Perla) soon and I'm curious about what to do with my car, specifically registration and insurance. I think for the first couple of years I want to retain CA plates and buy Mex insurance through a travel club. I have two new cars that I want to be fully insured in the US and Mex.

A friend has offered the use of his San Diego address for license, registration, and insurance purposes. I've also considered using something like Mailbox, Etc. but I don't know if that will work.

Has anybody confronted and solved these problems?

For vehicle registration I have used a PO Box at the DMV without trouble. My PO Box is on my driver's license too. The only problem with doing this is that the DMV does not mail registration renewal notices to PO Boxes. So you'll have to go to the DMV and wait in line or make an appointment to pay your renewal fees every year.

With my California car insurance through 21st Century I've used my PO box address, which is a non-usps type box so it doesn't begin with "PO Box", rather with an actual physical address. I've also used an address where I had a storage locker as my physical address and my PO Box as my mailing address. With 21st Century I'm covered for collision/comprehensive damage to my vehicles in Mexico as long as I'm within a certain distance from the border. I think it's within 70 miles. The insurance does cover liability in Mexico as well but since it's not underwritten by a Mexican insurance company it's not recognized as valid by Mexican authorities. So I bought non-tourist mexican insurance for coverage here. I'm not 100% sure but if I remember correctly, mexican tourist insurance is not valid if you reside in Mexico.

[vagabundo]

I use postal annex which is not like the US post office boxes because you have a physical address like your home address followed by your box number. Unless you have some ridiculously high box number they assume it's the number of your apartment.

Yes, I have heard of vagabundos del mar, although I'm more familiar with las vagabundas de las cantinas.

[andy]

I am not an attorney, so this is only a guide.

Auto best practices:

* You are probably considered a legal 'resident' of California if you at least continue to work there
* You will most likely need to maintain some type of US address and your California registration and insurance (not going to be getting Baja California plates without lots of other things happening)
* 21st Century is a good option since they cover your auto in Mexico up to their mileage limitations. But keep in mind, they don't cover any damage you cause in an at fault accident with another vehicle (or the people in the vehicle) so you should have a Mexican Liability policy also issued by a Mexican insurance company. I have a policy from Qualitas purchased via an agent on the web: (have not yet researched if I can get it cheaper directly from Qualitas in Tijuaua) http://www.mexicanautoinsurance.com/

Another thing to keep in mind is that US insurance companies base your premiums on your garaging address. Since you are really garaging your car in Mexico, you may be doing something unethical (or even illegal) when reporting your garaging address as in California. But I can tell you that there are surely tens of thousands of people doing this...

If someone knows of some way to have CA plates and an insurance policy that allows you to put a Mexican garaging address and full coverage in the US and Mexico, I would like to hear about it.

And Postal Annex or using a 'friend' or relatives address in California is an option for your address. Keep in mind this address affects your car insurance rates so it may be prudent to have an address in a neighborhood that has lower auto thefts, accidents, etc. There is a coupon in the Entertainment book for 50% off a yearly mailbox rental if you are a new customer.

[vagabundo]

If someone knows of some way to have CA plates and an insurance policy that allows you to put a Mexican garaging address and full coverage in the US and Mexico, I would like to hear about it.

Try mexipass an international insurance company:

http://www.mexipass.com/

[Gary]

Just spoke with Safe Insurance co. in San Ysidro.
Cost for full coverage auto ins. for an auto vauled at $ 19,000 is $406 USD per year with a $500.00 deductable, liability only is $168 yearly.

So this raises the question should i have only Mex. libility ins. and take my chances. If i were to have a accedent in TJ claim hit and run on the U.S. side to collect on Cailf. insurance.

By the way if you call Safe Insurance be prepaired to call twice. The first time they answer their is a bad connection so it necessary to call back. I call them twice which means I really called them 4 times. Hope this is not a indication of how they due business.

[andy]

Just spoke with Safe Insurance co. in San Ysidro.
Cost for full coverage auto ins. for an auto vauled at $ 19,000 is $406 USD per year with a $500.00 deductable, liability only is $168 yearly.

Liability only insurance for northern Mexico is available here for $106 per year. Insurance is through Qualitas. 50% savings.

http://www.mexicanautoinsurance.com/

[missjen_21]

Hi this is jenna and I am also thinking about moving around the area you live in but will be commuting to san diego every morning for school (starting at 8:30) and also for work... do you think it is worth it for the cheaper rent???

[George Costanza]

Hi Jenna

I save close to 600 dollars a month living in Otay. My crossing time is nothing 1-2 mins and I feel safer in Tijuana than in San Diego.
I just wish I moved a lot sooner. I always had small pads to crash at in Tijuana but never a home. If I moved 2 - 3 years ago I would have close to 20k saved by now

i have a friend who just moved as well and he is saving close to 900 dollars a month.

[Chiquito]

I use a UPS store box (was mailboxes etc) for all my US dealings, drivers license, registration, business address, taxes. Been working fine for 5 years now. I was using my ex wifes address for sentri as they actually investigate things. But we recenly sold that house so I'm going to have to change the address with them to my mexican address. Just don't ever state PO Box on forms. say like 9528 Miramar Road #123 (not mine) and most assume it's an apartment.

[bombero]

If I was single I would move to zona norte in a heartbeat. Of course that kind of lifestyle would sure shorten my life.

Other things I would consider: emergency healthcare. In the US you can have a quick medical aid response. Paramedics, and the proper hospital to best serve your problem (stroke, trauma, etc) all in a matter of minutes.

If you look or act american you are a target. Lots of people down there are very poor, poor beyond our comprehention. They can be your friend one minute and not think twice about robbing you the next.

Another terrorist attack on the US and you might get stuck in TJ for awhile.

crooked cops

How are you gonna get a cop if you need one?

Murder rate is sky high, rapes, drunk drivers all part of daily life.

out of control pollution. they have a habit of burning there trash at night. cars emit a lot of pollution. Not sure what long term health effects breathing this stuff has.

place can become a mud hole if it rains too much.

Jail. Actually I am not sure which are worst ours or theres. I like my chances in our jails.

Your car is never safe from thieves.

You cant own a gun.

drinking tap water can kill you ( you have to keep your mouth shut when taking a shower)

there are thousands of outhouses or holes in the ground that overflow or collapse during rainy season. pouring there contents into the streets, hills, etc

If you leave your place vacant it will be robbed

[Chiquito]

"emergency healthcare."

There are small private hospitals all over Tijuana. We have utilized the emergency services of one about 2 blocks from us several times. While I wouldn't go there for major surgery, for about everything else they have been fine. Costs are generally less than the copay on US insurance policies.

"your friend one minute and not think twice about robbing you the next."

With the class of people in the Zona Norte I will agree with this. If you are saying this about everyone in Tijuana, you are very ignorant.

"Another terrorist attack on the US and you might get stuck in TJ for awhile."

Not really. Even when they were closing the border after 9/11, it was never closed for more than 2 hours.

"crooked cops"

You learn to avoid or deal with them. I haven't had a problem in about 4 years.

"How are you gonna get a cop if you need one? "

Call them? Stop one of the many that are driving around all the time? Go to the station?

"Murder rate is sky high, rapes, drunk drivers all part of daily life."

Comparable with most any large city if you deduct the in-fighting of the narcos.

"out of control pollution"

Agreed.

"they have a habit of burning there trash at night."

Who does? I haven't seen this in the 5 years I've been here.

"cars emit a lot of pollution."

Some do, agreed.

"Jail."

I wouldn't feel safe in anyones jail.

"Your car is never safe from thieves."

This is true anywhere in the world. Use caution and your car is fine. Mine was broken into twice when I lived in a nice part of San Diego. Never in Tijuana. But I never ever park on the street.

"you have to keep your mouth shut when taking a shower"

No you don't. While I woudn't drink the tapwater, washing, showering, brushing teeth, etc, has never caused any problems.

"If you leave your place vacant it will be robbed"

Depends on your location, security, neighbors, etc. Again, holds true anywhere in the world.

[bombero]

Thats good info on the tap water, (not that I would ever try it) but I always thought it wastn suppose to cross your lips.

After 9/11 I was given a US gov. ID with a computer chip that list me as an "essential personnel" and is suppose to give me access into the country, military bases etc. in case of another terrorist attack. I think next tine it could be days.

I have had a relative shot and killed by 2 guys trying to steal his truck in his driveway. I had another relative, he is a businessman in ensenada and was making his way to san diego on weekends get mugged in TJ. He was in the hospital a long tme and didnt remember the incident. I could actually go on and on with horror stories, but the point I want to make is there doesnt seem to be any accountability. I have never seen anyone caught or prosecuted.

I had a G/F's daughter get molested on the way home from school. She went to the police station, and again got nowhere.

Are there records on how many girls are getting raped and killed? Isnt it in lauredo nuevo or some texas border town where it wastn till hundreds of women came up missing that anybody took notice.

TJ river valley smells like burned trash in the mornings.

You have a car, but you cant park in the streets. I have to agree with that. Ca plates alone are worth money.

Again I would not hesitate living down there, but I would not feel comfortable having my wife or kids living down there.

[YankeeInExile]

I do not know what city you have been visiting, but it surely is not Tijuana.

[quote=bombero]If I was single I would move to zona norte in a heartbeat. Of course that kind of lifestyle would sure shorten my life.[/quote]

Well, I suppose that sums it up. I am single, and I would not live in the ZN on a bet. I went with a friend to visit his grandmother who lives up around Colon and B. California, and that was the only time I've been north of first street in over 3 years.

[quote]Other things I would consider: emergency healthcare. In the US you can have a quick medical aid response. Paramedics, and the proper hospital to best serve your problem (stroke, trauma, etc) all in a matter of minutes. [/quote]

Excellent health care is available here at very reasonable prices. I pay less out-of-pocket for my expenses than I was paying in premiums when I lived on the other side. I had a motorcycle accident out on Cucapah about 3 years ago, and Cruz Roja was on the scene pretty damned quick. I was transported to Clinic 35, stabilized, and then to a private hospital near my house for surgery. The whole experience cost me just a hair of seven hundred dollars.

[quote]If you look or act american you are a target. Lots of people down there are very poor, poor beyond our comprehention. They can be your friend one minute and not think twice about robbing you the next.[/quote]

Only if you hang out with the pimps, whores and narcos.

[quote]Another terrorist attack on the US and you might get stuck in TJ for awhile.[/quote]

Consider the following: Terrorist attacks agains the United States in the last five years: 1; Terrorist attacks against Mexico: 0; I feel safer already.

[quote]crooked cops[/quote]

No more crooked than anywhere else in the world; learn the system rather than fighting it.

[quote]How are you gonna get a cop if you need one? [/quote]

I have needed to use the procuraduria to solve a problem with a recalcitrant ex-tenant, and I found the entire system to be responsive and fair.

[quote]Murder rate is sky high, rapes, drunk drivers all part of daily life.[/quote]

No higher than anywhere else.

[quote]place can become a mud hole if it rains too much.[/quote]

That is true; Although the neighborhood I am in now has better storm drains than when I lived out in V. Fontana.

[quote]Jail. Actually I am not sure which are worst ours or theres. I like my chances in our jails. [/quote]

Fortunately, the vast majority of users here will never have to try either. I honestly can say the quality of a city's jails has never been a factor in where I choose to live. Do you spend enough time in them that it matters?

[quote]Your car is never safe from thieves. [/quote]

Just like San Francisco, San Diego, or Boston. There is nothing new under the sun.

[quote]You cant own a gun.[/quote]

Sure you can. It is much more difficult than in the US, and you have to be a Mexican Citizen, but it is possible.

[quote]drinking tap water can kill you ( you have to keep your mouth shut when taking a shower)[/quote]

Oh, that is utter bullshit. If there were one meme I would love to see stricken from the minds of American's it is that Tijuana tapwater is unhealthy. I avoid drinking it because it is so heavily chlorinated that it tastes disgusting, but I cook with it without ill effect, I brush my teeth with it, I wash vegetables with it.

There are parts of the country where the tap water is rife with bacteria, but this is not one of them.

[quote]there are thousands of outhouses or holes in the ground that overflow or collapse during rainy season. pouring there contents into the streets, hills, etc[/quote]

Shit happens, eh?

[quote]If you leave your place vacant it will be robbed[/quote]

When I bought my first house, out in Playas de Tijuana, (Seccion Jardines) I got robbed twice. First time was shortly after I moved in, someone broke a window, and took a laptop that was sitting on a table, and would fit through the bars.

Second time, I was in Guadalajara for a month, and someone cut the bars away from the back window, and took a TV and a couple of computers.

Finally my business partner said "Get the hell out of that neighborhood -- I told you it was bad", and I started renting out the house.

In the five years since, outside of a room-mate who helped himself to my DVD player on the way out, I've never had anything go missing, despite lengthy trips away. Although, because of my experience out at the beach, I have always had at least one room-mate - even when I am on long trips, someone is coming and going.

[andy]

Hi this is jenna and I am also thinking about moving around the area you live in but will be commuting to san diego every morning for school (starting at 8:30) and also for work... do you think it is worth it for the cheaper rent???

Jenna,

It seems that there are lots of opinions, but not sure if your questioned was answered directly. I will try to do that.

I would not move to Tijunana only for the cheaper rent. There are lots of other factors that need to be considered. Yes, you can save on rent vs San Diego, but whether it is worth it or not is a matter you need to think about. There are lots of 'hidden costs' that will affect your lifestye if you move to Tijuana.

The main issue that you are going to have is a big change in the quality of your life. If you are very easy going, not bothered by change, and patient with things, you will probably do OK. Otherwise, you may regret it.

Quality of life issues you may encounter:

* Language
* Commuting time (depending on where you need to be at 8:30am, you will likely hit traffic in Tijuana, at the border (Senti helps), and in San Diego)
* Things you do for fun
* Access to your friends/family
* Safety of yourself and your family
* Culture differences
* Food differences
* Your home (what you take for granted in San Diego may be more of a luxury item in Tijuana)

For example, my sister will probably never visit my home in Tijuana. She is not comfortable bringing her kids there. In addition, my parents are very nervous in Tijuana. They will visit, but they don't really like it. They are worried about the water, the food, their safety, having an accident, etc.

So anyway, you really need to think about it. Most of the people posting on this board seem to be males (probably single). Things may be very different from a female's perspective, especially if there is a family involved.

If your main goal is to save money, there may be other better options.